Thursday, Jan 27, 1959, 8:25 a.m.

I awoke this morning to find us on a vast, arid plain—more specifically somewhere between Uma and Gila Bend, Arizona. The sun was just coming up and we were heading into it—it was a great golden glaring ball of flame—of course intimidating even then and my first impression was that of being on another planet or perhaps the sunny side of the moon. The road stretched ahead starkly for miles flanked by a sandy plain sprinkled with what appeared to be mesquite, sagebrush, and cactus. Out of this plain rises sharp barren peaks, about 500 feet at the highest above the level of the plateau. The abruptness of the peaks and the generally barren aspect of the whole thing reminds one of the moon as it is pictured, and of course is much like the Phoenix area landscape.

We left Monterrey about 2:30 yesterday. I drove to Taft where we had supper at about 6:30 and then Will took over, going through L.A. and giving up at Redlands, about midnight. Then it was my show to Yuma at about 6 a.m. (mountain time) actually a slightly foolish thing as I got pretty sleepy by the time we reached Yuma. Luckily the type of road was adaptable to rum-dum driving, so all went well. Will is driving now and we hope to make Tucson by 11 a.m. Thursday making connections at the border without any delay and avoiding an overnight stay. The speedometer cable just broke and is whimsically reading various speeds of 20, 60, 45, 90, and 100 mph. Other than that all three of us are relatively sound of body and mind; appearances notwithstanding. I made some emergency repairs to the top with a coat hanger last night, south of Taft. Little things will probably occur like that regularly.

Friday, January 30, 1959, 9:00 a.m.

Am now in Mex. City at Hotel Nueva Yorque (New York) to recount—arrived Tucson 11:30 a.m. 27th. Located S.P.E. house near University—talked to Members, had lunch there, VP Jim Riley helped us get tourist cards etc. got bus tickets from agent in Tucson. Went back to house, put car in their garage, Riley took us to bus downtown. Left Tucson at 3:30 on Transportes Noile Red Sonora bus, arrived Nogales 5:00. Crossed border, got postcards, had dinner at hotel, left on bus at 7 p.m. I slept most of way to Las Mochis, next morning at 9 a.m. scenery was not spectacular in north—except for mountain peaks. Brush cactus etc. dry. Scenes of incredible poverty—peasant shacks, oxen pulling wooden plow, poor, dirty vendors on streets.

At Las Mochis, much new building, one hotel very modern, better than most in small U.S. towns, yet all streets not paved or graveled even. Sidewalks, stores, people all very filthy.

Calicuan same way—all towns [?] quite dirty, people poor.

Mazatlan has several new hotels, we ate at one near the beach—striking contrasts between grand homes and stores and hotels and the peasant poverty. Road was good, many new bridges but no white line, no road markers showing distance, except for posts giving distance in kilometers from Mexico City.

Had dinner in small town near Tepi—1 large cup custard, 2 boiled eggs, ham sandwich, candy bar and orange soda for 7.90 pesos, 60c. Slept some again, arriving in Guadalajara at 3:30, left at 4 (very grand station) Scenery more typical here, but not really lush. Saw bananas, sugar cane. After Morelia, climbed very high in mountains, 8 and 9,000 feet in pine forests—very beautiful, waterfall views. Miles and miles of dry laid stone walls. Still peasant shacks. In every town, Church the dominant building. Much grander than all others. Stopped at high mts pass near large cathedral., little girls got on bus asking for donations to the temple. Perhaps a religious shrine for Mexicans.

Arrived M.C. at 6 p.m. some trouble finding room but located one at New York Hotel—taxi took us there for 1 peso each (8 1/2c) Had dinner at Sanbon’s near American consulate and then looked around at other hotels—found one much better—and ours is only 32.50 pesos/nite ($2.60). Went after dinner along main street, several “guides” approached us—would show us around for $1.00 an hour. Also met a Univ. student “Jorge” who would show us around, not as “guide” may find him today at University. Went to El Patie club one of best spots in MC after that—band, singers, dancers, quite posh—and 60 peso minimum—we talked our way out at 32 pesos.

Saturday, January 31, 1959, 11:15 p.m.

Saw University City, Univ. of Mexico Friday. Arrived about 11:30 and stayed until about 4:30. Ride down cost 20 pesos ($1.60) but about 7 pesos (60c) to come back. About ½ hours ride in taxi each way—Registration at Univ. that morning. Looked around for George (“Jorge”), finally thought we had him spotted at bookstore by Medical school—but when the man fitting his description returned, ‘twas not him. Anyway, we had good time at U of M.

In the evening we went to place called “El Eco”—had been written up in P/A a few months ago. Really fabulous space. Had many works of modern art, sculpture by Henry Moore, murals by various Mexican artists, Modern art exhibits near bar. Very avant garde. Arch was English –“Getty” manager showed me around place personally, learning I was an architecture major. A columnist for the tourist publication of the Mexico Govt sat with us at our table—Mario Perez. We had a good talk about Mexico, Mario, etc. Later a friend of Mario’s also joined us—a radio writer from NBC in New York—David Grabel. Writes for Dave Garroway brought tape recorder and recorded interview with the Andean dancers in the restaurant. The dancers did what were supposed to be authentic Aztec and Mexican folk songs and dances, with marimba accompaniment. A modern jazz group played in main dining room.

From there we went to the Pizaelle and the rest of the evening was rather undiscussable but interesting.

Today we met Francis de Boulette at Sanborn’s under the Hotel Prado. After lunching together a while he offered to let us stay at his place in Acapulco for a few days for 100 pesos total cost (we had met him at the El Eco the nite before) we are taking him to the bullfights tomorrow. He suggested we fly to Acapulco as fare has come down to 90 pesos. The rest of the day we spent looking at the Cathedral, Zocolo, City Hall, Aztec Ruins, Palace of Fine Arts (guide explained murals very well for 20 pesos). There were five murals by Tamayo, often referred to as the Picasso of Mexico, and Orozco (struggle of the classes) Siqieros and Diego Rivera, the last three being “revolutionary artists.” There were also many fine originals on display but such notables as Klee, Bandet, Picasso, Le Corbusier, Utillo, Dufy, Cezanne, Braque, Leger, Lautrec, etc. (not to mention Pablo O’Higgins) which we had time only to glance at. Tony then went walking by himself so Will and I went through the Almandea Plaza, took pictures and got 8c shoeshines. We then walked down to the office for tickets to the bullfights and got one for each of us plus one more for Francois. For dinner we ate at Santa Anita, tasteful little place with Piano and Violin playing songs which would appeal to the Serutan set. I had a meat broiled in red sauce, excellent and tasty. After dinner we went back to hotel—I stayed in and Will & Tony went out for a while.

I notice that the Mexicans are largely very courteous and often quite friendly, the waiters somewhat forward, the service leisurely, and everywhere there is much fuss made in proportion to the amount of money paid. Some common Mexicans seem to be amused by the sight of a “tourista.” English is spoken here only some, mostly by persons who must deal with many U.S. travelers. I found my spare knowledge of Spanish very helpful on many occasions already, I only wish I could be more fluent—this is vital to a real understanding of the country and the people. The girls are less inhibited than American females and this goes for the men, too. In fact the whole Mexican temperament leans toward the flamboyant rather than the subtile. They are more expressive but also more graceful than their U.S. neighbors. Mario said that everyone here admits a great bond with the U.S. and secretly if not openly looks up to their northern friends. They all think that everyone in the U.S. is rich, especially the tourists, and make no bones about getting their share of the dollar when they can, but through it all they remain courteous and friendly. They have much more patience than the American. The few other U.S. tourists I have seen in the city seem a little crude beside the “neighbors,” or natives, and I imagine they seem even more crude to the Mexicanos. There are still the poor even in Mexico City and there are all types, from the fair. To the dark, delicate to coarse features, all shapes and sizes.

The traffic is absolutely deadly. The pace is brutal, and the pedestrian has no inalienable claim to his body. The cab drivers are the most daring—a ride in a Mex. City cab compares favorably to a ride on the roller coaster at times, for thrills. It’s like an old W.C. Fields movie of a “chase” speeded up.

Tuesday, Feb 3, 1959, Morning

Acapulco

I sit on our terrace, near the bay in this hot, humid port where the ocean is south instead of west.

It is probably 9 a.m. The caretakers are filtering the pool, which is just under the balcony of our terrace. Pretty room I think I’ll jump off into the end—hope it is the deep one.

The bay is a turquoise gem, ringed by signals of prosperity, the large resort hotels, the homes and the stores, predominantly modern. Sunday in Mexico City we went up to the Zocalo in the morning to hear the President speak on the Uniting of Mexicans and the Guatemalan situation. There must have been about 200,000 in the Zocalo to listen. After that, we came back along Medeno St. and had breakfast at Sanborn’s House of Tiles, very pleasant and reasonable. Tony left us and went out to see the University again and get some pictures. We looked around the street after breakfast and then about 2 p.m. went back to the Hotel.

At 3 we got ready to go to the bullfights with Francois, we met him at Hanz Tibet restaurant and eventually made it out to the fights, just in time.

The corrida de Torros was a huge round arena, extending deep into the ground, the top row of seats perhaps 500 feet above the bullring.

The whole thing was colorful and very different to a stranger. First came the march of the toreadors, with the whole troupe in a small parade around the arena.

Each bull was killed in about 20 to 30 minutes. He would be let out of his pen after a red hot spike had been driven in his back between his shoulders to get his temper up. Also he had not eaten for hours, according to Francois. Then the toreador would let him make a few passes to warm up while the crowd shouted, “Ole!” Then the 2 picadors would be called out by the trumpets, riding on horses and carrying a long pole, barbed on the end. After the picadors had jabbed the bull further and the blood was starting

(a sketch of Hotel Caleta, Acapulco on the following page, which still exists, no more writing though.)

Dear Family,

I am having a glorious time in New York. The weather has been perfectly delightful, clear sky and comfortable sightseeing, temperature—neither cold enough to wear a coat, nor warm enough to want to sunbathe.

When we came into town after a quite uneventful flight we came directly to the YWCA hotel called Jathan House. At first appearance it was truly depressing—two single rooms each complete with bed, chair, chest and desk—also Bible) with an adjoining bath in between. It has now become just like home and is really welcome at the end of a busy day.

Friday we net Miss Schmitt and Laura Rogers in front of the public library which is really only about six blocks from here. They took us to their hotel for a drink, out then for Chinese food, then gave us tickets to the theater. Schmitty had gotten a manufacturer to get us tickets to Suzy Wong.

The play was terrific and we had second row seats. Both Katie and I were enchanted. Then they took us to Lindy’s for cheesecake. We really didn’t want them to do all this for us, but they really seemed to want to.

Saturday we went shopping a bit, and to the top of the Empire State Building in the morning and then took a tour of the united Nations in the early afternoon. From there we went up 5th avenue on the bus, planning to go to central Park, but by the time we had watched a German Colonies of New York City parade it was a bit late and we were tired so came back to the Y to rest a bit.

In the evening Schmitty and Laura Rogers took us to dinner again. After that Schmitty and Katie and I walked to the Waldorf Astoria to look at the lobby shop windows etc. before coming home.

Today we went on this boat cruise around Manhattan Island. It couldn’t have been more perfect weather as you will be able to see from my slides. It was nice to be out in the fresh air and having such an interesting experience at the same time. The tour took 3 hours and from there we went to Central Park and watched the children sailing their boats on the pond there. The poor children all dressed up in kneepants, velveteen dresses and white socks—trying to play. Only the colored children looked comfortable. We peeked into the Metropolitan Museum for about an hour and then took the bus down to Greenwich Village. Saw all the art Galleries on the street and the Villagers—what a bunch of phony looking people. I’m glad I am among the washed.

Went to the Threepenny Opera which is the English version of the Beggars Opera. It was quite delightful. We took our first subway ride homed—before we had used the bus because then we could see the people, streets, etc.

Tomorrow we will go to market with Schmitty and Miss Johnson and then leave for the terminal about 4:00.

This has surely been a pleasant way to start a long trip—arts, friends, and with such fun things to do—but I know that we’ll be really fond of each city and country we visit and hate to leave them as much as we hate to leave New York.

Must close for now. I am the dispatcher for New York so you might call Mrs. Rapp and tell her how we are and what we’re doing. Wish you were all here to do this with me

Love Mary

October 15, 1960

Postcard from Reykjavik to Mr & Mrs Leo Squires 2303 G st Eureka

Dear Folks

Arrived here 6:30 a.m. for breakfast. Only had about 24 hours in NY but saw the U.N., Guggenhiem Museum, Times Sq. Empire State Bldg. Central Park and mid-town. Enjoyed the new Idlewild airport. Also rode subways and busses. Should arrive in Oslo in 4 hours. Very good service on Icelandic Airlines. Will send more later

Love Don

Ausgar Hotel
26 Mollsgate
Oslo Norway
16 October 1960

Dear Folks,

We arrived in Oslo on schedule yesterday at 2 p.m. At this latitude we are nine hours ahead of you so as I write now it is 6 p.m. here and 9 a.m. where you are.

We took off from Reykjavik at about 8 a.m. local time and flew at 19,000 feet over clouds all the way to Oslo. Then we dipped down below the blanket of clouds at about 2,000 feet and circled into Oslo airport. We think went through customs and took the bus into town (free—I don’t know why).

Apparently, we or at least I look very much Norwegian because as a rule people are a little surprised when we speak only English—English is spoken by a large amount of people here and we have no trouble. The man at the bus station found us a hotel, one of the Mission Hotels in fact, where Mary stayed the time before. We have a small but nice room, south orientation with a bed and a couch bed, a sink but no bath or toilet (they are down the hall) and it costs 26 kroner/night for two nights, or about $3.65 US per night.

We were very tired last nite after being up on the plane the previous, but rested a short while and then went out for a walk along the main streets. We saw the Parliament and Royal Palace and University bldgs which are all flanking the central mall downtown. We had dinner at the Gamle Christiana, about two blocks away. I had liver in gravy with boiled potatoes and a glass of beer and Mary had chicken roasted with salad and 2 kinds of potatoes. Our total bill was 17.45 Kroner or about $2.50. So far we have spent about 100K which includes everything except tonite’s meal. 100K = about $14.00 so we are doing our budget justice. Last nite after dinner we went to the RR station to find the time and fare of train to Stockholm. It is 88K and takes about 9 hours—we will probably stay here Monday and then take the morning train on Tues. arrive in Stockholm about 6:30 Tues.

This morning we had breakfast in the hotel—coffee, (Mary had chocolate) sweet rolls, and 3 kinds of bread on a plate with about a cube of the best butter I have ever had—I really put it on like frosting—47c a piece. An interesting thing is that the tip, about 10-15%, is added right on to the bill like a tax so that there is no tipping as we know it. All these figures I have mentioned include everything.

We then went to the U.S. Embassy—it was closed, being Sunday, but got a picture—it is about a year old, done by Eero Saarinen (of Michigan). It harmonizes will with the local architecture. We thin took the trolley out to the Frogner Park where the famous Vigeland sculpture is situated. It was quite nice and we got some good shots.

The weather today was clear and windless, probably about 35 degrees right now and 45 maximum today—made for fine picture taking. We have walked easily 8 or 10 miles today and feel it. Tourism is hard work but really worth it.

After the park we saw the new 15 story Philips building and then took the bus out to the Museum and the bldgs. Housing the viking ships and Kon Tiki raft. Also we saw the Froen (explorer ship) and a stave church. The folk museum had a very good display of Laplander items esp good were various animal traps (bear, fox, reindeer) and clothing samples. We found the early and present example of Norwegian art and handicraft far superior to their work of the 17th to 20th centuries, the real greatness of the Norwegians seems to lie in their antiquity and present and not in their middle span.

We came back from the Museum, had coffee and bread, and walked by the waterfront, saw the Christian Radelich (the schooner featured in the Cinerama show we saw in S.F. remember) returned to our room via the town hall (very handsome).

The Norwegian architecture is very picturesque but not corny, as picturesque is in the U.S. It is a direct opposite to that of Manhattan. The bldgs. Here all have a very fine human scale—all seem to start with man and work into a bldg., where the N.Y. examples apparently start with the machine (technology) and accommodate but do not necessarily recognize the human and his scale. Our buildings are bigger, newer, and shinier but Norway has it all over us in scale. The workmanship is generally not as good as ours, tho we did see the new bldg. today with excellent craftsmanship. Also the weather here is harder on bldgs. than in Calif.

There are no night clubs in Oslo—only beer & wine are sold and the Norse are a sober lot. They are all quite handsome, the girls are wholesome, all pretty and some really beautiful and we have been treated warmly in general tho with Scandinavian restraint.

We’ll now get ready and go out for dinner—think we’ll try a good place for a treat—may end up spending as much as $2.00 apiece!

Love, Don

Postcard from Alfred Christensen to Mr. Donald Christensen c/o American Express

October 20, 1960

Dear Donald and Wife

We are at home next week. I think you can phone from Noesboed or elsewhere if you want I shall meet you in Nyborg and take you home from there. Or you will find the way to us by yourself? Phone: Orboek 132

Regards Alfred

From Don to Catharine and Leo

Hotel Mygil
Copenhagen
20 October 1960

Dear Folks

The weather turned very cold in Oslo about 32 degrees—almost snowing—and we found that the train fare to Stockholm was about $12.00 apiece—so we decided to go to Copenhagen directly instead. Therefore we left Tuesday morning at 11:30 and arrived at Copenhagen at 10 p.m.

Can’t remember if I wrote about Monday in Oslo or not—anyway, we saw the Town Hall, the U.S. Embassy by Saarinen—a personal tour by the security officer and also saw the University Museum—sculptures and paintings, and had dinner at a fine place called the den Rennebarth—on the main street (Stortingsgate) overlooking the plaza on the second floor. It was strictly a local clientele—the service was flawless and the food likewise—I had halibut and Mary had weinerschnitzel—plus smelt for each of us—all we could hold—for $2.60 total, or about $1.30 apiece!

We also saw some good furniture and houseware shops, we are now convinced that we will go Scandinavian all the way in our interiors.

The train from Oslo was fairly comfortable but nothing special. The scenery was grand, especially along Oslo Fjord. It got dark about at Goteborg and I slept some on the train. We had a 20 min. ferry ride at Halsingborg, then to Copenhagen very soon.

We met an American girl on the train who had been studying at the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, oil painting etc. and just sightseeing before coming home to Ma and Pa in Orange, New Jersey—she had made the “triangle” from Copen to Stockholm to Oslo and back to Copenhagen—more tired than inspired as the trip was almost continuous.

We found Copenhagen hotels very full—at least those in our price category—as it was vacation week in Denmark and all the mamas brought their brood in for shopping and sightseeing in the city.

We finally found a room in the Hotel Absalon—a very old—maybe 300 years—place and very clean but awkward as we had to have the clerk open 2 doors whenever we came or went. (we moved today across the street—our room is 3 kr less—now 20 kr $2.80) and now more convenient.

After departing from the train, Kate showed us to a night club called the Gold Digger—all cowboy motif—all the waiters wore western garb and big tin stars—we had beer—Carlsberg pilsner—excellent. It was amusing to watch Danish cowboys—we note that the Danes are much jollier and warmer in general than the Norwegians.

The next day we looked at the Town Hall, went up in the tower, and window shopped , saw American Express with news from Mrs. McGrew. Then we went through the Carlsberg Brewery—a 40 min. tour—followed by sampling—and then back for a change of clothes and out to dinner—at the K.A.R. restaurant—both had soup and veal cutlet with potatoes, sauce, and milk—all excellent and filling for 90c apiece.

Today we decided to rent bikes—they are 5 kr per day (about 75c) which allowed us to cover a lot of territory a very enjoyable way. We saw the U. S. Embassy where I asked about employment—also went to the Danish Architectural Society—left my name and resume—it so happens that an architect was looking for an American architect for his office—so they might have an opening if I qualify—I am to call next week (probably from Alfred’s) and see what they decided. Apparently they will have several applications and want to screen them first—we think it would be kind of nice here—tho the language still has me baffled. I found Norwegian a little easier.

Lunch today ran us 40c each, Sonorrebrod, which are delicious open faced sandwiches of meat past or meat, tomato or egg or anchovies, smoked salmon, fried fish or what have you—all delicious—about 20c each, two make a meal—and the best milk of course. We then (after lunch) saw the State Museum of Art—very good, many French moderns there—and the Resistance Museum, some of the waterfront, and the Christianborg castle—Kings state halls and parliament—and back to the Mygil and out to dinner—this time 8 kr20 all total ($1.20 for two)—lamb, potatoes, milk and big dessert)(ABC Cafeteria). It’s hard to spend over a dollar apiece no matter where you eat or how much you take.

We ran over our expenses in Norway but are more than making it up here—without feeling it. Tonite we went to a show—US film “Pillow Talk” w/Rock Hudson & Doris Day—was nice to see a film in English with Foreign subtitles for a change—also to note Danish reaction to US situations.

That’s all for now—more bike riding in the morning—should be in London by the 28th (if no job)

Love,

Don

October 24, 1960

Near Kolding

Dear Mom and Leo

I have written a card to Alderpoint in case no Leo yet. We received your letter at Refsvindege yesterday and very glad to hear from you.

We left Alfred this morning at 9:00 from Nyborg. The weather was so windy and rainy that it seemed we should not tarry but get on south. Nevertheless we enjoyed Alfred very much. I think he must be a very smart man. He speaks English fairly well, learning all on his own, he learned more when he spent one month in England. He is Bud’s age, and his wife Gudrund is 56. We notice that the women seem to age quite more than the men here. (All the girls have big legs from riding bicycles.)

Well, to continue the report on Copenhagen—Friday morning we rode some more on our cycles—must have gone several miles—out to Grudtvig Church and by the University. We then came back and left our bikes and went through Rasenborg Castle, which used to be the royal residence. There are now barracks for the king's guard along the edge of the grounds. Denmark has a draft like we but only for 14-16 months.

As it was about noon, we trotted (I walked fast, Mary trotted) over to Amelienburg Palace to watch the changing of the guards. Then we walked over by Ny barn, which is on a canal and so nothing like our north Beach in S.F.—we got a couple of pictures there.

The rest of the afternoon was taken up with shopping for Christmas.

Furnishings are very excellent in all of Scandinavia, but only a few have the new things

We found out that our room would be taken Saturday night so called Alfred to see if he would welcome us then. He did so we got a ticket for Saturday at 3:00 to arrive there about 5:15. We didn't get there until after 6:00 took a taxi out to the farm, and had dinner after arriving.

Alfred is the only one who knows English of the family. They have three children, Grethe, married to an airplane mechanic and now living in Italy, and Nahha, who is 21 and single, working for a photographer in Odense. Sigerd the boy is 16 and youngest. They have lots of rooms as the old farm had cows where he has only apples now. I think he has about 40 acres but this year the yield was low. The place is almost like a museum, very white and very neat, and on one wall of the storage wing Sigurd painted a map of the farm showing the arrangement of the fields. Alfred has less to do now that he has trees, and I imagine he is a little lonely in the country and especially with winter. He had many books, some good records and takes the Geographic and Punch. His two brothers are near by, one has a nursery and the other works in a hardware store.

They eat a medium breakfast, a large lunch and a light supper—sometimes with coffee and cake at about 4:00 and again about 9:00. Never very much at once but always so that you can eat as you choose. The meals are made up of small things like cheese, cold cuts and 2 kinds of bread, and chocolate and/or coffee. For the main meal we had pork (roasted) and potatoes, and red cabbage and coffee and pears with delightful rich whipped cream on them and sprinkled with cereal.

I hope they can come to America before too long but it is harder for them. Sigurd may become an engineer and that would mean much more (10 years) schooling. If they come at all it will probably be ten years. We saw Kai Olsen who is their neighbor and lived in California about a year. They make cider from some of Alfred’s apples.

It rained Sunday but Alfred took us down around Svendborg and part of Fyn.

We are on the train from Nyborg to Hamburg and near to the German border.

October 27, 1960

Hook of Holland

We missed our train at Hamburg by about two minutes (we had to change and they were late getting in.) So we had to wait for the next one at 3:320 a.m., twelve hours later.

We found the tourist office at Hamburg very efficient and cooperative. We walked out by the lake in the center of the city and then out by the Reepersbaum where all the gay life is centered. We had a good dinner there for about 80c each and spent most of this time just walking around afterwards. We noted the Germans and how American they were in their haste and businesslike manner. They drive very fast and with a mixture of bicycles, walkers, and vehicles, it gets pretty hectic. The German girls are quite good looking, more than the Dutch, who are rather gawky and long nosed.

We have found language a problem very seldom so far. Most people can understand or with a little hand waving it is not hard.

There seems to be quite much prosperity in all the lands so far, especially Germany.

We almost missed our car again in Amersvort (we got on the Paris car by mistake and when we woke up they were unhooking us. Somehow we got all our luggage and changed in time. We have five bags—two suitcases of Mary’s my black grip, my green AWOL bag, and a small gray bag. I carry the two cases and the AWOL ,Mary the other two plus her umbrella and purse, both of us with top coats and I with a camera so you can imagine what we must look like.)

We arrived in Amsterdam about noon on Tuesday, and after changing our money, went by streetcar to a hotel we had picked out from “Europe on $5 a Day.” It was 300 years old and had no showers or baths, but we went to the AMUS or something (the equivalent of YMCA) and found good showers for 7c apiece. We felt much better then and went back to the room and had some bread and cheese we’d bought in Hamburg and then went out to the canal and took a tour by boat around the city. There are 50 canals stretching for hundreds of miles. Amsterdam is quite different than any place I’d ever seen. There are fine old churches and public buildings with quaint spires and most all the bldgs. Are 2 or 3 or 400 years old. They are built in long rows right together, and since they are all on piles, they have settled unevenly and some tip in and some tip out. They look like a crooked stack of dominoes.

We found prices a little higher than in Den or Germ but still our hotel was $2 apiece, which included a breakfast of tea, egg, bread and ham and cheese.

That night we found a fine place to eat (Chinese food) with egg, ham and fried chips, and pickle and lamb bits, and Mary had the same except with rice under it. Also I had two beers and Mary had two cokes and we were stuffed and it was only about 85 or 90c apiece. You must go there someday.

Yesterday we went out to the museum after getting our tickets for London at American Express. The museum contained modern paintings and sculptures, as well as photographs and prints. It is the city museum and is near to the National Museum in the same park. We had lunch in the new wing which contains a restaurant. This was by far the best museum I had seen over here (cost 13c to get in). There were many Van Goughs, Vermeers, Picasso, Chagall, Leger, Gabo, and even a Jackson Pollock.

We took a tram around the city, had a coke on the 13th floor restaurant of a new building, and then turned in after supper.

The Dutch have a clever idea—the mailboxes are on the backs of the trams, and all the mail is picked up at the central station.

That’s about all. Today we are on the boat from Hook of Holland to Harwich, will arrive in London 8 p.m.

Love,

Don and Mary

Dover, England,

November 1, 1960

First, a belated but sincere wish for a happy anniversary—I suppose you spent it againas before, handing out to the trick or treaters. Well, I hope it was a happy one, whatever you did, and that you will have many more.

Now to try to recap what’s happened since we arrived in London—I’ll try to use abbreviated form to save both your eyes and my hand—found place after 3 calls, on Porchester Sq west side of London Bed & breakfast 15/6 (English money) or $2.15 each per night. Breakfast: Grapefruit or cornflakes, egg and/or bacon, toast w BUTTER, tea. Friday: taken up with car pick up. After same went downtown to American Express, rec’d letters from Squires & McGrews but no parcel of drawings yet. I had mailed 3 weeks ago from S.F.

Saw U.S. Embassy in London. Left car at hotel and went downtown to see stage play “Irma Le Donce” cost 70c each for quite good seats.

Saturday—saw houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and Tate gallery—special exhibit of “The Blue Rider” group. Took tube to friend Jerry Ingersoll and wife’s place at 32 Doughty St. East side. Jerry working for arch. Wife for London County Council (city planning) Arch. Positions plentiful, many vacancies. Jerry and wife planning to build house soon to return to U.S. after about 1+ more years. Had dinner there, exchanged info & addresses.

Sunday—went on tour of new bldgs. (via car) outlined by Phyllis Ingersoll—I enjoyed much. Dinner in Indian restaurant in suburbs, saw St. Paul’s church, then light supper downtown, then to movie.

Monday—tried to get pass to see Parliament in action—none available until 15 November.

Sunday only nice day, rain most of rest of time. Monday saw Buckingham Palace guard change and tower of London, Tower bridge, lunch at 300 yr old “Cheshire Cheese” restaurant on Fleet Street then 1 ½ hours at the British Museum. Left car at Porchester, back to see play “Ross” with Alec Guiness 50c each. Excellent.

Tues morn—checked out, checked Amer. Express & left forwarding, left for Dover 12:30—4:30 arrived Dover—having bought groc. And gas on way. Stayed at Effingham Guest House very adequate for 2.10 ea incl breakfast. Had good reasonable dinner at Poppe’s on main street.

Sunday, 6 October, 1960

Orleans France

We are now staying at McGrews’ friends the Moodys—just 2 blocks from the Cathedral in Orleans—tomorrow will leave for Paris early and try to catch Mary & Orson early before they leave for London.

Wednesday we arrived at the ferry ship on time, got our ticket, cleared customs etc. and then had to board at the western docks because the seas were too turbulent at the eastern docks. Finally left 1:30 a.m. Dunkirk at 5:00, got hotel there, “Hotel du Tigre” for 15.50 New Francs ($3.50). Next morning went to Amiens, arr 12:00, saw town & Cathedral, supposedly the largest in France. Dep for Rouen 3:00, arr 5:00 stayed at Hotel du Nord (12.50 NF). The French cooking better, but still nothing exceptional.

Friday—left Rouen after seeing cathedral, quas, etc. Arrived in Orleans about 3:30. Rain most all the time.

Moodys have nice place, 3 BR. No jobs here in this dist. As overseas staff being reduced. Sat morn. Decided to visit chateau country—weather sunny in A.M., one of best days we’d had—saw 4 chateaux, plus many old provincial towns, several small churches, many cave-cliff dwellings along the banks of the Loire (none of our meals have been as good as our meals at the Moodys and the one we had at Ingersoll’s. You can’t beat home cooking!)

Sunday we went east along the Loire and saw the oldest remaining church in France, begun about 800 A.D. and done in the Carolingian style. Also we saw a Benedictine church and monastery.

We then went through the Orleans cathedral and walked around town, looking in on the museum and through the arcades. One whole street has stores on both sies forming a continuous arcade for about four blocks—a good idea for places with much rain! All the people were promenading on Sunday. Also we walked through the town park.

That brings us up to date; now for some general comments:

1. The French people have big feet, not only long, but flat.
2. They must have weak eyes because all headlights are amber colored and parking lights are used until it is pitch dark. Then you better dim them.
3. The provinces look much the same as they’d have looked for 300-600 years except for the new merchandise in the windows.
4. 4 out of 5 cars you see are Citroen 2 CV models. They are the Model T Ford of France.
5. The French will not speak English, and hate to hear bad French.
6. They are excitable but set in many ways—love to talk and are either apathetic or sometimes rude to aliens. Yet they are nice where $ are concerned.
7. The bread is wonderful, food good but not too cheap—i.e. a restaurant meal is about $1.25 -1.50 each.
8. US architects have a lot to learn from them in their relating buildings to each other and human scale; as with Scandinavia.

It is quite stirring to see how the cathedrals have risen out of small communities, sometimes taking hundreds of years to complete. Would Americans ever do this?

More soon

Love, Don

November 11, 1960

Vesoul, France

Dear Folks,

We got to Paris by about 1:00 p.m. Monday and found the hotel where Mary and Orson were staying. After checking at the hotel and leaving a note with friends of theirs (M.&O. were on a tour of Versailles for the afternoon) we found a hotel on the Left Bank and walked around the Ille de la Cite, looking at the govt. buildings and Notre Dame Cathedral. Notre Dame was most impressive from the outside, being too dark on the inside.

We then had dinner with Mary and Orson, left them at 9:00 and back to our hotel as Mary was a little indisposed. Our hotel was 12 NF per nite.

Next day we went to the Eiffel Tower, then to the new UNESCO building nearby. Then we walked by the Invalides (Napoleon’s Tomb) and across the river and had lunch on the right bank—then by the Palais Challot (on axis with the Eiffel Tower). The Museum of Modern Art (closed) and back to the hotel.

Wednesday we went to the Louvre, the opera and American Express and the Bourse, stock exchange, National Library, (1870, very nice) and to the church of the Madeline (patterned after the Greek temple) then walked up the Champs Elysees & to the Grand and the Petit Palaises, and then to the aquarium, then by subway over to Follies Bergere for tickets (7 NF each), back to the left bank for dinner (at 142 S. Germain, one block from hotel), then back to the Follies from 8:45 to 12:00, then home.

Wed nite Mary started to get the trots and was down recuperating all day. Thurs. so I first went shopping and then over to the Museum of Modern Art, where I saw the exhibit “Sources of the 20th Century” (Art and Architecture) was very good. I had dinner that night in the Latin Quarter, Rue de la Harpe—slow ave.) while Mary slept.

Friday morning we left the hotel about 8:30, Mary o.k. now and after a little trouble getting the right road out of Paris, we got on N19 and headed for Ronchamp, the famous new chapel by Corbusier. We got as far as Vesoul by 5:00 and got a room there (Mersedes Hotel 10 NF) and had a good dinner across from the RR station (I had snails).

November 16, 1960

Later that night I developed a terrible allergy which was from house dust I think, and was sneezing and huffing almost to the extent of going out in the car to sleep. But we survived—poor Mary had to hear some loud snoring that nite.

The next morn we were on the road at about 7:30 and arrived at Ronchamp before 9:00. It is a pilgrimage church, Catholic of course, done by Le Corbusier in 1955. It sits high on a hill with a commanding view of the rolling hills around and is all white concrete. The acoustics inside however were awful. Only the form itself was fine.

We then cut down to Pontalier by way of some really charming mountain roads, and into Switzerland to Geneva via Lausanne. Switz is really a model of perfection, pure air, clean people and every blade of grass seeming in place. I liked Geneva very much, it is beautifully situated and French, German, and English is spoken there. Also there is much activity, prosperity and building going on. It also seems well endowed with things to do.

Our dinners were somewhat higher (ab. $1.50 each) but the food was excellent and service also good. Our hotel was about $3.60 US.

We spent the day of the 12th driving and walking around Geneva and then went out to dinner and a movie—in English.

Sunday morning we saw a parade by Swiss soldiers and then after walking along the lake left for Zurich. It rained quite a bit and the trip took us most of the day.

We finally found a hotel in Zurich—most of them pretty high—for about $4.50, breakfast included. We had found some as high as $8.00.

While in Zurich I got the car serviced, saw an architectural firm, and visited museums and stores with Mary. They have a most wonderful toy store there, on the main street. But as yet I have seen no cuckoo clock.

The arch. Firm is hoping to get a job for I.B.M. in Geneva—so if they do (about $2 million worth) I would likely have a job with them. I have to wait also and hear what my draft board says. I like Zurich but not as well as Geneva or Copenhagen. Also London is hard to beat for things to do.

Today (Wed.) we went across St. Gotthard pass and down through Luzano—a beautiful trip. Luzano is so breathtaking we could hardly believe our eyes. Also blue sky and sun! We had rain and snow on the north side, then the pass being closed put our car on a train and went through the tunnel on a flat car. We got as far as Verona, Italy tonight. I like Italy very much so far. We travelled on the Autostrada (freeway) and one can go 80 if one has a big car. We are about to turn in and get a good sleep so we can leave early for Venice.

Love,

Don & Mary

November 23, 1960

Tirrenia Italy

Dear Folks

We’ve been staying with Mary’s friends, the Baylors here in Tierrenia for the last two days Tirrenia is hallway between Pisa and Livorno (about 7 miles each way) and right on the Mediterranean Sea. Most of the houses here are large and with grounds, actually small villas in effect, and rented by Italian owners to U.S. personnel. There is also a U.S. Army supply center here complete with PX etc.

We have been lucky so far to have at least one nice day in each major city. In Venice it was cloudy last Thursday when we arrived but Friday was beautiful and we took the vaporetto (water bus) over to Lide Island and looked around. It was really deserted this time of year. There is also a casino there as well as an international film festival building. We saw the famous Piazza San Marco, the St. Maria Cathedral (dark but fantastically rich) and the campanile that so many have been copied after.

We found a good hotel for 2000 lire, on the street leading to the railroad station (Hotel Nazionale) and also found a couple of good restaurants on the same street with a fixed price meal of 550L (615L to the dollar). For that you get pasta (spaghetti, noodles, ravioli) or soup (minestrone) and then your main course (meat or fish) with potatoes slight extra charge for vegetables. Then either cheese or fruit for dessert. (By the way in case I haven’t mentioned it our budget is $5.00 cash per day and we’ve been making it so far—even in Paris. We figured out our costs in Milan and for the previous 20 days we had averaged $9.95 per day, or 5 cents under! We felt so smart that we promptly went downstairs to the dining room and had a beer and tea, respectively, which only used up forty cents of our surplus. This includes gas and oil as well as food and lodging; in other words, everything!)

We looked around Venice pretty thoroughly Friday and then went to a movie that night. We got some good pictures I think. Anybody who goes to Europe and misses Venice is crazy. We went to Milan on Saturday after seeing a museum in the A.M. in Venice. There is Autostrada (freeway) most of the way and it took only about 4 hours.

Luckily Sunday was a fine day and we saw a museum, had lunch in the park and also saw the Leonardo da Vinci museum (Leo, you would especially like that).

Then we promenaded down to the Duomo (Mary commented that Milan is like New York in slow motion on Sunday anyway), and then looked at the famous cathedral—both inside and outside—and then climbed the stairs and walked around on the roof. There were all kinds of people up there just walking all over the roof—we went up as high as you can go, from where you can see all over Milan. Also it was nice to be able to get up close to the construction of the cathedral and really see how it was done.

Monday we checked at American Express and found your two letters there (one containing Stanley’s check, thank you) (How is Stan’s house coming? I understand they had to change it?) I tried, unsuccessfully, to locate a fellow who was supposed to be working in Milan. Then we headed for Levorno about 1 p.m., arriving here about 7 or 7:30. It was good to eat American food for a change (and plenty of it). We have been so hungry for milkshakes and hamburgers. I’ve lost about 10 pounds so far, which is good as I ought to stay about 155 if poss. Mary came down with a cold as soon as we hot here and was abed all yesterday so I went to Pisa and climbed the leaning tower and looked around a bit. Today we’ll go to the PX at the base and tomorrow have turkey dinner with the Baylors.

More later,

Love,

Don & Mary

8 December 1960

Orleans France

P.S. Missed the mailbox today, so will add a few lines.

Went up to Livorno today—it sure isn’t as nice as a lot of places I’ve seen, just as well there were no openings there. Most small towns here look more American than other places in Europe.

Mary and Sophie are cooking for tomorrow, 5 pies, 2 turkeys, etc. etc. They certainly are generous people—are having another family in. Sorry we couldn’t be with you but we sure feel lucky to be here—

I think it’s good you will retire next year mom—no use overdoing it, esp with the job of Grandma to keep you busy.

From Don to Mr. and Mrs. Leo Squires

Dear Folks,

I somehow have a lapse of memory and can’t remember exactly when I sent the last letter to you, but I’ll try not to leave out nor repeat anything, assuming it was from Livarno.

(I did get your checks and letters from Milan, also word from draft board by wire, received both Stan’s and the draft board check).

We left for Rome Monday after seeing Florence for two days after Thanksgiving—Florence was a real gem, surprisingly bustling and busy and packed with art treasures. Nothing much new here though—it’s all of the past, but absolutely charming. There is an autostrada from Pisa to Florence. Also one to Bologna from Milan. We decided to go down the west coast to Rome, however, and did so, arriving after six bumpy hours. We found a nice place near the Vatican a motel type arrangement, left our car in the courtyard.

Rome was another of Europe’s cities that has no equal anywhere I’m sure—a monument or fountain at almost every turn, and a panorama from the funiculus hill that is really inspiring. We poked around in the ruins, had a sack lunch on top of the colosseum, saw several churches, and went nosing about on my own while Mary did our xmas shopping (gift for the Squires, Corbett boys, and Mrs. R.O. and Cochran children are on the way from Livorno, hope they arrive in time). We found several fairly good restaurants for about 550-700 lire for a meal, on Via Vittoria, and the street paralleling it. (These are near American Express). I got a craving for waffles but they are a dollar in Rome, so we had a waffle feast back in Livorno. We went out to the Baths of Carealla, and caught the filming of a movie (French). Another especially interesting treat, one likely to be missed, is the Thermae Museum in the Baths of Diocletian near the R.R. station. It is an indoor outdoor sculpture exhibit, very different and interesting. Other “musts”—the panorama, mentioned above, the Roman and Trajan Forumo, the Fountain of the Nyads and Trevi Fountain, and Santa Maria della Vittoria Church—a wonderful Rococco-Baroque interior, small but powerful.

We left Rome on Friday on the Cassia-Road, up the center of the boot and stopped at Siena, having lunch at the Cathedral, then going on to a little town called San Gimingnano, on the hilltops, and I took several pictures of its notable towers. We got to Livone (Tirrenia) by about 6 p.m. and rested for a day on Saturday--Sunday we left for Milan via Genoa, picked up our mail at A-E Monday morning and went back over St. Gatthard to Luzern and to Ninchatel Switzerland by Monday night. Tuesday we headed for Orleans via Portalier, Dole, Dijon, Auxerre, and Gun, arriving at about 5 p.m. after 9 hours. Wednesday we headed for the Havre, got our car on a ship to sail Dec 9 and arrive at N.Y. Dec. 18 or 19. We took the train back to Orleans, arriving here at 10:00 p.m. and are going to wait here with the Moodys until we can get our plane out of London next Friday Dec. 16. That will give us only a minimum wait for the car in N.Y. and then we will drive across the country and hope to arrive in Portland by Dec. 25th. I have given in to Mary on that, as she is so anxious for me to meet the rest of her family, and then we will head for Eureka about the 27th or 28th, and then to S.F. on the 30th as I have to be back at the N.G. by the 31st. Then I will try to start work as quickly as possible as the $ will be low by then. We are driving across mainly to save the $100 over air fare, but it should be interesting as well. I hope you won’t mind having a delayed Christmas with us this year.

We are both fine, though a little glad to be able to rest after all the travel. Mary feels signs of an enhatchment and if everything continues without incident, we should have good reason to stay home next summer. With a little luck, it may even be human! I guess I will be going back with Balles or some other good firm in the Bay Area, and we should be pretty well financially recovered by June. Boy, we sure have enjoyed this trip tho and wouldn’t trade it for the world!

We’ll be glad to see you all and the house and cabin and family, about Dec. 27th we hope. Hope you’re all well and happy and Merry Christmas from us until then

Love,

Don & Mary

P.S. You can reach us c/o American Express
Patrons Mail Dept
143 Liberty Street
New York NY until about Dec. 20.